Microplane zester: small tool, big flavour

It weighs almost nothing and I use it nearly every day.

A fine zester with a lemon, lemon zest and parmesan on a wooden board — Illustrative image

What it is

A fine zester is a long, narrow metal grater with hundreds of tiny, razor-sharp teeth. They are cut by etching the steel rather than punching it, which is why the cut is so clean. You drag a lemon or lime across it and it removes only the coloured skin, in a light, fluffy pile.

Why zest matters

The yellow skin of a citrus fruit holds the fragrant oils. The juice brings sourness; the zest brings aroma. A little zest over fish, chicken, eggs or vegetables lifts a plain dish without adding sugar, flour or sauce, which is exactly what you want on a low-carb plate.

The white layer under the skin, the pith, is bitter. A good zester takes the coloured part and leaves most of the pith behind. A knife or a coarse grater cannot do that as neatly.

What else it grates

Hard cheese: parmesan or pecorino comes out as a fine snow that melts into dishes and covers a lot of surface.
Garlic and ginger: a paste in seconds, with no chopping.
Nutmeg and cinnamon sticks: fresh spice has far more scent than the jar.
Dark chocolate: for dusting a dessert.
Horseradish and fresh turmeric: fine shreds without the work.
Frozen butter: light curls that mix quickly into dough.

How to use it

Wash and dry the fruit. If it is waxed, scrub it under warm water first.
Hold the zester steady over a plate or bowl and drag the fruit down in one direction. Do not saw back and forth.
Turn the fruit as you go, so you take colour only and stop when you see white.
Use the zest straight away for the best smell. Zest not used can be frozen in a small container.

Mind your knuckles. The teeth are very sharp, so keep your fingers away from the end of each stroke, and stop when the piece gets small.

Caring for it

Rinse it right after use. Dried-on food is harder to remove.
Clean with a soft brush and warm water, and wash along the teeth rather than across them.
Dry it and keep it with its cover on or in a drawer where it will not catch other tools.
If something turns out to be dishwasher safe, the maker will say so. Check the product page.